Permanent Cosmetics Design Considerations

by Marjorie Grimm

Today and Tomorrow Considerations

It is difficult to imagine putting your facial features in fast forward in order to determine what, if anything will be different about your permanent cosmetics as your face continues to mature. This is rarely questioned at the consultation for permanent cosmetics because we have the tendency to think of having our permanent cosmetics look fresh, day and night, as we look today. It is however, a very important factor when deciding on design and color selections for permanent cosmetic procedures. Assuming you have selected a well- trained technician for your service, permanent cosmetics services today need not be a fear factor for the future.

When considering the natural progression of age and the longevity of the positive appearance of your permanent cosmetics, the most important issues are proper placement and design of your procedure. If not properly placed with the future effects of gravity taken into consideration, your procedures could very well not be as attractive as you had hoped. Conversely, proper placement and classic (rather than trendy) designs and colors, can ensure that you will enjoy the pleasure of a fresh face and youthful appearance for many years to come.

Eyebrow designs

The eyebrow design should be placed in the area where your natural eyebrows grow, or used to grow. If you are pursuing an eyebrow procedure to enhance your own eyebrow hair that is extremely light, following your own natural eyebrow placement is critical. Your new eyebrows, or enhancements to your existing eyebrows, will then age naturally along with the skin that in which it is placed. Some women, however, prefer to draw their eyebrow tails slightly above the bone. To consider this design proper for a permanent cosmetic eyebrow procedure may or may not be a good decision depending on whether you would consider cosmetic surgery such as an eyebrow lift in the future. Higher exaggerations of the tail of the eyebrows may work for those who never intend on having plastic surgery, but this is not recommended if there is a chance that you may want to pursue surgical modifications to your face.

There are many different techniques employed to create a natural eyebrow design. Some clients prefer a similar appearance to that which is produced by their eyebrow pencil. This is called a "powered eyebrow design". Some clients specifically request a "hairline stroke design". This is the simulation of multiple hairs in a specific design area that implies movement such as real eyebrow hair provides. This is an advanced technique and clients desiring hairline stroke eyebrows should consult with a qualified technician before proceeding. Many clients and technicians see merit in the combination of a soft powered eyebrow technique with strategically placed hairline strokes, normally in the bulb area to compliment the client's thin hair growth in that area. There are many artful techniques to choose from.

Top Eyeliner Designs

When considering a permanent cosmetic top eyeliner design, the best choice for the long term is pigment placed in and directly above the lash line. This design also gives the most options for using topical makeup for special occasions when a more dramatic appearance is desired. Often mature women feel wider eyeliner on the upper eyelids will compensate for the faltering affects of excess eyelid skin. This is usually not recommended, unless heavy eyeliner has always been worn. Most importantly, as eyelid surgery becomes increasingly popular, the potential for surgical removal of excess eyelid skin must be taken into consideration. If eyelid surgery in the future is a possibility, the removal of the excess skin will cause a wide eyeliner to appear even wider. If conservative eyeliner enhancements and top liners close to the top eyelashes are applied, your permanent cosmetic top eyeliner should not pose any challenges for a cosmetic surgeon.

One of the most ill-advised top eyeliner designs is the exaggerated extension of the eyeliner tails far past the last eyelash of the outer corner of each eye. What may give you the illusion of a "lift" or eye width extension in that area at the initial time of your procedure may in time appear misplaced, uneven, and/or partially or totally hidden in the excess skin that affects the corners of the eyes.

Lower Eyeliner Designs

The same principles apply to lower eyeliner, however there are several surgical technique options that could have an effect on lower eyeliners. Keep your design conservative and placement directly beneath the lower eyelashes. If in doubt, work with your client's surgeon to determine the best method of proceeding. As the skin in that area ages, your lower eyeliner will remain in its original placement. In the event surgical removal of excess skin beneath the eye is elected, depending on the technique utilized, at the most, you may need a touchup to restore the integrity of the original design.

Lip Design and Color Selections

The same thoughtful consideration must be given to lip liner placement. If placed properly, permanent cosmetic lip liner can actually detract from noticeable wrinkles on and directly above the lips. In order to slightly enhance the size of the lips and give the appearance of fuller lips or lip augmentation, the lip liner can tastefully be placed adjacent to the vermilion border, however the texture of the natural vermilion border is thicker and more noticeable than the thin tissue of the rest of the lip. As a result you will always see a lip within a lip if the lip liner is not placed on or directly above the natural vermilion border of the lip.

When choosing the color for your permanent lipstick, there are several factors to keep in mind. Over time the lips become less plump and small or large lines appear. As the lips decrease in size due to the aging process, the color may appear inconsistent. Where there is more wrinkling in the lip, the brighter colors will appear denser and thus, darker than other areas that are less wrinkled. Consider a soft, more natural lip color for your lip liner and full lip colors so that years later, when the overall configuration of your lips has changed, your color remains complimentary and the wrinkling less noticeable.

Summary

The primary consideration when determining permanent cosmetic design and color specifically for yourself, it is that you are involved with the process. Do not agree to allowing another person to maintain complete control over these factors. A professional, well trained technician will routinely solicit your preferences and do what is required to meet your standards. It is your face, and you, your family and friends will be the ones to eventually live with the results. Look forward in time, and work toward designs and color selections, and your permanent cosmetic makeup will serve you well for many years to come.

Original article here.

Micropigmentation (Permanent Makeup)

Another guide to refresh your knowledge or share with your potential client...

Applying some cosmetics can be bothersome, especially if you have a physical condition that makes it difficult (cataracts, severe arthritis, etc.) There's help in a procedure known as micropigmentation, or permanent makeup.

With this procedure, a trained doctor or specialist can inject iron oxide pigment into the middle layer of your skin (the dermis) for results that last longer than the eyeliner you have in your bathroom drawer. It has many monikers, including "dermagraphics" or "permanent makeup."

Who's a Candidate for Permanent Makeup?

We mentioned that anyone with physical limitations may seek out permanent makeup, but anyone (male or female) can have it done.

Do you want to improve the appearance of thin eyebrows or lips? Do you have an uneven hairline or allergies to make-up that create a problem? Micropigmentation may be a viable solution. It's not going to provide a perfect world, but it can help enhance certain features.

How Do I Find Someone to Apply Permanent Makeup?

Do your homework when looking for someone to apply permanent makeup. This is not school, but it is your appearance. You should make sure to find a doctor or specialist who has experience in this procedure.

Be warned. There are a lot of people out there performing these services who do not have your best interests in mind. When you visit the office, you should examine the area for cleanliness and professionalism.

A dedicated, involved specialist should be able to answer any and all of your questions. Make sure you feel comfortable communicating with your doctor or specialist and that you feel open to ask anything that's on your mind.

You should have a consultation with your chosen doctor or specialist before the procedure, during which time you discuss your expectations with him or her. At this time, he or she also will determine if you should receive anesthesia (usually local).

During the consultation, he or she may take a medical history. It's important that you are completely honest. Additionally, you should be honest for why you want permanent makeup so your doctor or specialist understands all of your concerns. He or she will evaluate your skin for tone, texture and complexion in order to best match your natural colors with the proper pigment. He or she also may take photos.

How Is Permanent Makeup Applied?

Typically, permanent makeup can be applied in an office setting. The procedure will be performed with a pen-like instrument or standard tattoo gun. Your doctor or specialist will wear medical gloves when performing the procedure. The procedure itself will take a short amount of time, perhaps 20 minutes to a half hour at most.

If you are receiving anesthesia, you will be required to arrive earlier in order to let the anesthesia take effect. After the procedure, your specialist or doctor will provide you with an antiseptic to cleanse the treated region.

What Should I Expect After Getting Permanent Makeup?

You will be sent home the same day you get permanent makeup. You should expect swelling in the treated region. Your doctor or specialist will instruct you on how often you should ice the area and what type of ointment you can apply to the area.

If you are having the procedure performed in your eye region, you should plan to have someone drive you to the office and home again. You may experience watery eyes, which is normal.

The pigmentation typically will appear darker in the weeks following the procedure, but will fade over time.

Follow your doctor's instructions on what to avoid such as peroxide and sunlight. Either of these can damage your new look.

After Getting Permanent Makeup, Contact Your Doctor Immediately If:

• You experience excessive swelling
• You develop a fever or rash
• The area feels excessively hot or burns

Follow-Up Care for Permanent Makeup

Your new look requires maintenance. Some people have to undergo two or more treatments with permanent makeup. Make sure you understand exactly how many session you will need. As the pigment fades over the years, you also may have to undergo additional treatments to maintain the look.

Does Insurance Cover Permanent Makeup?

No. This is an elective, cosmetic procedure that you will have to pay for on your own.

Original article, click here.

Shelf Life/Expiration Date

There are no regulations or requirements under current United States law that require cosmetic manufacturers to print expiration dates on the labels of cosmetic products. Manufacturers have the responsibility to determine shelf life for products, as part of their responsibility to substantiate product safety. FDA believes that failure to do so may cause a product to be adulterated or misbranded.

Voluntary shelf-life guidelines developed by the cosmetic industry vary, depending on the product and its intended use. For instance, a 1980 article by David Pope in Drug and Cosmetic Industry suggested a minimum shelf life of 18 to 24 months "to maximize cost efficiency in warehousing, distribution, and marketing."

The 1984 text Cosmetic and Drug Preservation: Principles and Practice, edited by Jon J. Kabara, recommends testing product stability by evaluating samples at regular intervals for 3 years or longer, depending upon the product.

The European Union's Cosmetic Directive, as amended in 1993, requires expiration dating only for products whose "minimum durability" is less than 30 months.

Conventional Cosmetics

The shelf life for eye-area cosmetics is more limited than for other products. Because of repeated microbial exposure during use by the consumer and the risk of eye infections, manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase. If mascara becomes dry, discard it. Do not add water or, even worse, saliva to moisten it, because that will introduce bacteria into the product. If you have an eye infection, consult a physician immediately, stop using all eye-area cosmetics, and discard those you were using when the infection occurred.

Among other cosmetics that are likely to have an unusually short shelf life are certain "all natural" products that may contain plant-derived substances conducive to microbial growth. It also is important for consumers and manufacturers to consider the increased risk of contamination in products that contain non-traditional preservatives, or no preservatives at all.

Consumers should be aware that expiration dates are simply "rules of thumb," and that a product's safety may expire long before the expiration date if the product has not been properly stored. Cosmetics that have been improperly stored - for example, exposed to high temperatures or sunlight, or opened and examined by consumers prior to final sale - may deteriorate substantially before the expiration date. On the other hand, products stored under ideal conditions may be acceptable long after the expiration date has been reached.

Sharing makeup increases the risk of contamination. "Testers" commonly found at department store cosmetic counters are even more likely to become contaminated than the same products in an individual's home. If you feel you must test a cosmetic before purchasing it, apply it with a new, unused applicator, such as a fresh cotton swab.

Original article published in FDA.gov